04-25

Veneer Choices for Engineered Wood Floors

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Engineered wood floors are available in tongue and groove strips that can be stapled and/or glued to the subfloor. Due to new technology, “long plank ” veneers are designed for use in “floating” installations below grade or over concrete, where boards are glued to each other and not attached to the subfloor. This type installation allows shifting to protect against moisture and humidity.

Engineered wood floor finishes are plentiful, available in just about every domestic hardwood and softwood as well as in most exotic woods, where fabulous savings can be captured. Unless specially ordered, all engineered wood floors arrive prefinished.

The thickness of the outer layer and the quality of the plies or substrate is usually reflected in the length of the warranty. The specifics of the veneer should be a consideration. Engineered wood floors with veneer thickness of 1/12 inch cannot and should not be sanded and/or refinished. On the other hand, if the top layer is ¼ inch or more, the floor can accommodate three or more sanding and refinishing treatments during the life span.

This means the stain can be changed or preserved and will add years of life to the floor. It is strongly recommended that the engineered floor of choice have at least three layers of cross-stacked substrate. Five plies will be that much more stable, even if the wear layer is not thick.

Remember that the top layer or “wear layer” is all about achieving the look, feel and warmth you desire. The substrate is about stability and preservation.

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04-18

How Engineered Wood Floors are Made

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Many consumers are put off by the term “engineered’ when, in reality, the effect should be directly opposite. When it comes to wood floors, “engineered” stands for the future. Engineered wood floors are not made from solid hardwood but they are genuine wood floors replete with warmth, beauty and integrity.

The bonded inner plies or layers make engineered wood floors more stable, more durable, more sustainable and more cost-effective than solid wood floors. Engineered wood floors usually consist of at least three plies that are glued together in cross-grain construction. This construction helps explain the superior stability of the surface compared to solid hardwood floors as the plies add protection against buckling, cupping gapping or twisting. The manufacturing process has made engineered floor the most popular choice for below grade flooring for many years.

The outside layer is a hardwood veneer, a thin cut of the wood selected by the consumer to serve as the floor’s surface. Exterior veneer choices range from softwoods to hardwoods and can even include exotic woods.

The top layer gives the engineered floor the look and feel of authentic hardwood. Inner layers or plies can be made from a number of products including plywood, high density fiberboard or hardwood. These core layers promote stability but also help resist the moisture and humidity to which solid wood floors can be susceptible.

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04-12

Painting Your Hardwood Stair Risers

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Distinctive hardwood stairs say a lot about a property’s quality and painted risers can make a lasting impression and actually emphasize the quality and natural beauty of the stairs better than solid hardwood risers. Homeowners and business owners primarily choose to paint risers for aesthetic reasons but regardless of the type of wood used for the stair, the painting process remains the same.

Respiratory and Other Safety Precautions

Carefully select the type pant to be used on the riser. Look for paints with low or no volatile organic compound (VOC) content. To ensure safety of the worker and family members, insist that workers wear protective respiratory equipment such as a painting respirator.

Sanding

The purpose of sanding the risers is to remove any existing paint or stain and prep the risers to receive the new paint. Painting will roughen the riser. When finished, use a good primer to fill and bind the small but noticeable irregularities in the riser. New paint can make minor flaws more apparent so this is an important step.

After sanding, wipe each riser with a damp cloth to thoroughly remove dust and/or any residue. Because applying the primer to a damp surface may trap moisture that might appear later, be sure the surface is clean and dry before applying the primer.

Protecting the Steps

Many do-it-yourselfers trust old newspaper to cover the step for protection of the hardwood finish. We do not want to drip paint on our hardwood step, the very item our white riser is designed to highlight. Plastic sheeting is another popular protective cover but whatever you use, make sure it extends from the base of the riser to the step’s nose. When working on the steps, tread lightly to ensure the covering does not rip.

Apply the Primer

Now that the steps are covered, prepare to apply the primer by placing a baby gate or similar barrier at the top and bottom of the stairwell. Ideally, these will eliminate children, pets and bystanders from crossing into the work area. When applying the primer, use natural bristle brushes and be sure to deploy your respirator. Each primer stroke should be in the same direction as the wood grain. After meticulously applying the first coat, allow it to completely dry prior to commencing the second coat. Along the way, it is a good idea to inspect your protective covering.

Paint the Riser

Use a foam brush to apply your high quality white paint of choice. Plan your painting so that you end on the stair level where you wish to spend time until coats dry. In most cases, white risers will require a second finished coat, which should not be applied until the first is completely dry. Check your work being careful not to rub against wet paint.

Touchup Details and Cleanup

After your paint has dried, check each riser. Make any necessary repairs. Allow repairs to dry before beginning your cleanup and final detail work. Carefully remove tape and then the protective layer. Use a small detail brush to touch up any surprises after the protective layer is removed. Voila! You have a spectacular, better than new stairwell.

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04-6

Pre-finished Hardwood Pros

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The durable finishes of pre-finished hardwood allow for easy installation on a broad number of subfloors. This flexibility is not assured with site finished hardwood flooring. Additionally, pre-finished hardwood can be installed in just about any climate because pre-finished hardwood has proven to be more resistant to moisture and humidity than site finished hardwood.

This adaptability explains why pre-finished hardwood floors are the choice for floors that are below grade and where the room is prone to moisture. In these conditions, pre-finished hardwood floors are more versatile than site finished hardwood.

Experts report that when hardwood is pre-finished, it can receive multiple coats of finish that are uniformly applied in the factory. This makes for a finished surface that is difficult to achieve with site finished floors. Perhaps the greatest benefit of pre-finished hardwood floors is that they can be installed on a wide number of subfloors because the finish work need not be completed on site.

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